For some time now, there is a lot of talk about retinoids in the health and beauty sector , specifically in reference to skin care. Cosmetic and pharmaceutical products boast of containing these components and claim that they will have multiple benefits for you , but do you know what retinoids really are? In this article we explain everything about them.
What are retinoids and where do they come from?
Retinoids are a class of compounds derived from vitamin A , commonly used in skin care. The importance of vitamin A was discovered during World War I and subsequent research showed that its deficiency leads to xerosis and follicular hyperkeratosis .
The use of vitamin A (and consequently, retinoids) dates back to about 3,000 years ago in ancient Egypt, where liver (rich in this vitamin) was eaten to treat blindness. However, the modern history of retinoids began in 1909 when an essential factor for the viability of an embryo was discovered in the fatty extract of the yolk of the egg, called vitamin A. Retinoids were finally introduced in the treatment of dermatoses, including photoaging, in the 1970s
In 1968 the first project was launched to synthesize vitamin A-like compounds by chemically manipulating its molecule in order to develop drugs and improve clinical efficacy and safety.
Classes of retinoids
The retinoid family includes vitamin A (retinol) and its natural derivatives such as retinaldehyde, retinoic acid, and retinol esters , as well as a large number of synthetic derivatives. Vitamin A cannot be synthesized by the body; therefore, it needs to be supplied to the body.
It is naturally present in the form of retinol and beta-carotene. Retinol esters are converted to retinol before being absorbed by the intestine and are converted back to retinol esters for storage in the liver. In plasma, retinol binds to plasma binding proteins and retinol.
How can they benefit your health?
Scientific studies (primarily on tretinoin, which is a prescription retinoid) show that retinoids can reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and blemishes on the skin after 12 weeks of use.
Acne removal
If you have moderate to severe acne that has not improved with other treatments, retinoids can help. When spread on the skin, retinoids can unclog pores, allowing other medicated creams and gels to work better. They also reduce breakouts by preventing dead cells from clogging pores . By clearing acne and reducing breakouts, they can also reduce the formation of acne scars.
Retinoids therefore treat oil production, acne-causing bacteria, and inflammation. To achieve this, a small amount of retinoid cream or serum must be applied to the skin once a day, 20 to 30 minutes after washing your face .
When you first use retinoids, you may notice redness, peeling, or worsening acne. You can minimize this by using the product every other day until your body gets used to it, or mix it with a moisturizer for atopic skin.
Treatment of psoriasis
Retinoids can slow the growth of skin cells in psoriasis patients . Usually a small dab is applied to each sore once a day before bed. Retinoid creams and gels are often combined with steroid treatment in cases of psoriasis.
Prevention of premature skin aging
Tretinoin was the first retinoid used to treat skin wrinkles caused by premature aging. This retinoid works by increasing the production of new collagen. It also stimulates new blood vessels in the skin , giving it a pinkish appearance, reducing age spots, and reducing precancerous skin spots called actinic keratoses. Tretinoin can also help prevent the more serious effects of UV radiation.
Over-the-counter retinoids in cosmetic stores may not work as well as prescription tretinoin in drug stores to reduce wrinkles, but they can improve the appearance of sun-damaged skin . Using it in conjunction with products containing alpha-hydroxy acids can provide even more skin-softening effects.
To achieve these effects, it is recommended to apply it to the face, neck, chest, hands and forearms at least twice a week . However, you should keep in mind that effective wrinkle reduction takes 3 to 6, and the best results are obtained after 12 months.
